Wearing waders, he boarded his boat and motored to the lagoon with scores of other fishermen to rake the clam gardens that for decades have transformed this sleepy Italian village off the Po River Delta into a bivalve boomtown. As the sun rose, Mr. Genari, a leader of the local fishing cooperative, poured his first haul of clams into the basin of a metal sorting machine. “Opened, opened, opened,” Mr. Genari said, as he sifted through shells and avoided the murderous crabs snapping at his fingers. The killers had, he said, laid waste to the baby clams. The clams will be gone.”

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Persons: Massimo Genari, Genari, “, ” Mr, ” Locations: Goro